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Coconut Oil in Cosmetics: Billion Dollar Derivatives

In the world of cosmetics, few ingredients have garnered as much attention and acclaim as coconut oil. Revered for its natural origins and versatile properties, this tropical elixir has become a staple in skincare, haircare, and beauty products. From its moisturizing prowess to its gentle cleansing abilities, coconut oil’s influence on the cosmetics industry is undeniable.

However, beyond its surface-level benefits lies a complex array of substances derived from coconut oil, each with its own unique role in enhancing beauty routines. Join us as we delve into the realm of coconut oil in cosmetics, exploring the myriad ways in which this natural wonder is transforming the beauty landscape.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylic/capric triglycertide is essentially mixed triester derived from coconut oil (or palm kernel oil or babassu oil) used as an emollient/moisturizer and thickening agent. The global caprylic/capric triglyceride market is valued at $735 million in 2023 and is estimated to reach $1.2 billion by 2033, thanks to its versatility. Aside from cosmetics, the application of caprylic/capric triglyceride can be found in pharmaceuticals, personal care products and food industries.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is derived from coconut oil due to its skin-friendly properties and its ability to effectively dissolve lipophilic substances. In the context of cosmetics and skincare, lipophilic substances are often used to formulate products that can penetrate the skin barrier more effectively, as the outer layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) is lipophilic in nature. This allows lipophilic ingredients to be absorbed more readily into the skin, where they can exert their beneficial effects.

The process of producing caprylic/capric triglyceride involves hydrolyzing high-grade vegetable oils like coconut oil, which is rich in medium-chain fatty acids, followed by fractionating the resulting fatty acids to concentrate caprylic and capric acids. These concentrated acids are then esterified with glycerol to form the triglycerides.

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Caprylic/capric triglycerides have been shown to form a continuous monolayer when in contact with water, indicating their potential use in emulsions. In the context of cosmetics, emulsions are commonly used to create products like lotions and creams, where oil-based ingredients need to be dispersed in water to form a stable and uniform mixture. The ability of caprylic/capric triglycerides to form a continuous monolayer on water suggests that they could potentially act as an effective emulsifier or emulsion stabilizer, helping to create and maintain the desired consistency and texture in cosmetic formulations.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Coco-caprylate/caprate is a common ingredient derived from coconut oil in cosmetics industry, often used as emollient and skin conditioning agent. Cosmetic brands that include this ingredient are Avon, Drunk Elephant, BeautyCounter, Well People, Biologique Recherche, and many more. The compound is derived from coconut oil and known for its lightweight and non-greasy texture, making it ideal for various skincare and hair care products. Additionally, coco-caprylate/caprate has good spreadability, which allows it to be easily applied and absorbed into the skin without leaving a residue.

Relatively smaller in market size than caprylic/capric triglyceride, the coco-caprylate/caprate global market is estimated to be worth $31 million in 2022 and projected to reach $39 million by 2028.

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To produce Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, initially coconut oil is subjected to hydrolyzation to obtain glycerol and fatty acids. Next, the fatty acid mixture is fractionated to separate caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acids from the other fatty acids in coconut oil. The separated caprylic and capric are then esterified with non-glycerol alcohols to form coco-caprylate/caprate. Common alcohols used in the esterification process of coco-caprylate/caprate include ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and hexanol.

Coconut Oil in Cosmetics: Coconut Alkanes

Coconut alkanes are a type of emollient derived from the fatty acids found in coconut oil. Famous cosmetics brands including Clarins and Sisley have used coconut alkanes as one of their products ingredients. They are created through a process called hydrogenation, which involves adding hydrogen to the unsaturated bonds of the fatty acids, transforming them into saturated alkanes. This process can be done with other fat sources as well, such as palm oil or soybean oil, but coconut oil is often preferred due to its sustainability and the quality of its fatty acids.

In simpler terms, coconut alkanes are made by taking the oily parts of coconut oil and turning them into a smoother, more stable substance that can be used in cosmetics. Coconut alkanes can also be used as lubricants, solvents, plasticizers, protective coatings, and excipients in pharmaceutical formulations.

Coconut alkanes are used in cosmetics as an alternative to silicones. They are found in products like foundations, moisturizers, and hair care products, where they provide a silky, smooth feel without the use of synthetic ingredients. They are also used to improve the spreadability of products and to help form a protective barrier on the skin or hair.

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As for the market size, it’s challenging to pinpoint a specific monetary value for coconut alkanes alone, as they are often grouped under the broader category of natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients. However, the demand for such ingredients is growing, driven by consumer interest in more natural and environmentally friendly products.

Regarding the environmental aspect and personal safety, coconut alkanes are generally considered to be biodegradable and non-irritating, making them a favorable choice for eco-conscious formulations. There are no known bans or major controversies associated with their use in cosmetics.

Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate

Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate is another example of versatile ingredient derived from coconut oil in cosmetics, although it can also be sourced from other vegetable oils. This compound is created through the esterification of glycerin with caprylic and capric fatty acids, which are medium-chain fatty acids found in coconut oil. In simpler terms, glycerin, a natural component of fats, is combined with specific fatty acids from coconut oil to form a new molecule, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate.

In cosmetics, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate is valued for its emollient and emulsifying properties, making it a popular choice in skincare and haircare products. It helps to soften and smooth the skin and hair, while also aiding in the formulation of stable and effective cosmetic products. Additionally, it acts as a skin-conditioning agent, providing hydration and enhancing the overall feel of the product.

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The market size for Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate is not readily available in monetary terms, but it is a commonly used ingredient in the cosmetics industry, indicating a significant demand. As for recent issues, there are no major concerns regarding biodegradability, irritation, or bans in certain countries. It is generally considered a safe and environmentally friendly ingredient.


Coconut Oil in Cosmetics: Laureth-4


Laureth-4 , also known as PEG-4 Laurate, is a emulsifying agent, synthethic polymer, derived from lauric acid, a fatty acid commonly found in coconut oil. It can also be derived from other fat sources, such as palm oil or animal fats. The substance takes form in a colourless liquid. In cosmetics, Laureth-4 is used as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and cleansing agent, commonly found in products like facial cleansers, shampoos, and bath oils.

The chemical reaction to produce Laureth-4 involves the ethoxylation of lauryl alcohol, which is derived from lauric acid. This process involves reacting lauryl alcohol with ethylene oxide to add ethylene oxide chains, resulting in a compound that can mix with both water and oil, thus helping to form stable emulsions and improve the solubility of other ingredients.

In simpler terms, think of Laureth-4 as a mediator that helps oil and water, which usually don’t mix well, to get along and stay mixed in your cosmetic products. This is why it’s often used to create smooth, even textures in creams and lotions.


Derivative of Coconut oil in Cosmetics: Potassium Cocoate

Potassium cocoate is a potassium salt derived from the fatty acids present in coconut oil. It can also be derived from other fat sources, but coconut oil is the most common due to its high lauric acid content. In cosmetics, potassium cocoate is primarily used as a surfactant, cleansing agent, and emulsifier, commonly found in products like soaps, shampoos, and body washes.

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The chemical reaction to produce potassium cocoate involves saponification, where coconut oil is treated with potassium hydroxide (KOH) to form potassium cocoate and glycerin. This process converts the fatty acids in coconut oil into their potassium salt form, making them more soluble in water and effective for cleansing.

In other words, the mixture creates a soap-like substance that helps to clean your skin and hair by mixing with water and dirt, making them easy to wash away.

Many end-user brands in the personal care industry use potassium cocoate as an ingredient in their products, including Dr. Bronner’s, Cetaphil, and Burt’s Bees, among others. Despite it being used widely, the market size for potassium cocoate is difficult to calculate, as it is part of the larger market for surfactants and cleansing agents in cosmetics.

Regarding environmental safety, potassium cocoate is considered to be environmentally friendly and biodegradable. It is generally mild and less irritating compared to some other surfactants, making it a popular choice for natural and sensitive skin formulations.


Sorbitan Caprylate

Sorbitan caprylate is a compound derived from the esterification of sorbitan (a sugar alcohol) with caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil. While it can be derived from other fat sources, coconut oil is a common source due to its rich caprylic acid content. In cosmetics, sorbitan caprylate is used as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin conditioning agent. It is often found in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help mix oil and water-based ingredients and improve the texture and feel of the product.

The chemical reaction to produce sorbitan caprylate involves the esterification of sorbitan with caprylic acid. This process links the fatty acid chain of caprylic acid to the sorbitan molecule, creating a compound that can help stabilize and blend ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

In simpler terms, sorbitan caprylate is made by combining a sugar-related substance (sorbitan) with a fatty part of coconut oil (caprylic acid). This combination helps mix ingredients that usually don’t mix well, like oil and water, making products like creams and lotions smoother and easier to apply.


Sorbitan Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from the esterification of sorbitan (a sugar alcohol) with fatty acids from olive oil. While it is primarily derived from olive oil, it can also be derived from coconut oil because coconut oil also contain oleic acid. In cosmetics, Sorbitan Olivate is used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients, and it is also valued for its moisturizing and skin-conditioning properties.

The production of Sorbitan Olivate involves a chemical reaction where sorbitan is combined with fatty acids from olive oil, resulting in an ester that has both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) properties. This dual affinity makes it an effective emulsifier, helping to stabilize and improve the texture of cosmetic formulations.

oil dispenser bottle

In simpler terms, Sorbitan Olivate is made by mixing a sugar-related substance (sorbitan) with the fatty parts of olive oil. This combination helps to mix ingredients that usually don’t mix well, like oil and water, making products like creams and lotions smoother and more moisturizing.

Sorbitan Olivate is used by various end-user brands, particularly those focused on natural and organic cosmetics, such as Weleda, Dr. Hauschka, and Caudalie.

Sorbitan Palmitate

Sorbitan Palmitate, a common ingredient in cosmetics, is made from palmitic acid, which is found in coconut oil among other fatty acids. But, it’s important to note that palm oil is the go-to source for palmitic acid since it makes up nearly half of the fatty acids in palm oil.

You’ll find Sorbitan Palmitate in a range of cosmetic products, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It’s key in mixing oil and water components together, enhancing the texture and consistency of products like creams, lotions, and other skincare items.

The creation of Sorbitan Palmitate involves the esterification process, where sorbitol, a type of sugar alcohol, reacts with palmitic acid from coconut oil or other sources. This reaction leads to the formation of Sorbitan Palmitate, the agent responsible for emulsifying and stabilizing in cosmetic formulations.

Coconut Oil in Cosmetics: Tricaprylin

Tricaprylin is a substance from coconut oil in cosmetics, specifically from caprylic acid, a medium-chain fatty acid found in coconut oil. It can also be sourced from other fats and oils rich in caprylic acid, such as palm kernel oil.

green palm tree under blue sky during daytime

In the cosmetics industry, tricaprylin is valued for its emollient and skin-conditioning properties. It is commonly used in skincare products like moisturizers, serums, and creams to enhance skin hydration and texture. Additionally, tricaprylin serves as a solvent and carrier for active ingredients, improving their absorption and efficacy.

Tricaprylin is produced through a process called esterification, where glycerol reacts with caprylic acid to form this triglyceride compound. In simpler terms, it’s like combining a backbone molecule (glycerol) with three fatty acid chains (caprylic acid) to create a moisturizing and skin-softening ingredient.

Tricaprylin is used by various cosmetic brands in their formulations, especially those focusing on natural and organic skincare. Some cosmetic brands that may use tricaprylin include Bobbi Brown, Thrive, Cetaphil, Avegan Beauty, etc.


Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol, also known as 1-hexadecanol or palmityl alcohol, is a fatty alcohol that is commonly derived from coconut oil. It can also be sourced from other fat sources, such as palm oil, which are rich in palmitic acid.

As a derivative of coconut oil in cosmetics industry, cetyl alcohol is widely used for its emollient and emulsifying properties. It is a common ingredient in creams, lotions, and other skincare products, where it helps to improve texture, provide a velvety feel, and stabilize the formulation by keeping oil and water components mixed.

The production of cetyl alcohol involves the hydrogenation of palmitic acid, which is a fatty acid found in coconut oil and other sources. This chemical reaction converts the acid into the alcohol form, resulting in cetyl alcohol. In simpler terms, the process involves adding hydrogen to the fatty acid, transforming it into a smooth, waxy substance that is ideal for cosmetic formulations.

white and orange plastic bottle

Cetyl alcohol is used by numerous end-user brands in their cosmetic products, particularly in moisturizers, conditioners, and other personal care items.

Recent issues surrounding cetyl alcohol mainly focus on its sourcing and sustainability. While it is biodegradable, concerns about the environmental impact of palm oil production, from which cetyl alcohol can be derived, have led to increased demand for sustainably sourced ingredients.

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearyl alcohol is primarily derived from stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in various vegetable and animal fats. While it can be obtained from coconut oil, it is more commonly derived from other sources such as palm oil, soybean oil, and animal tallow.

In the cosmetics industry, stearyl alcohol is widely used as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener in products like creams, lotions, hair conditioners, and deodorants. It helps to form stable emulsions, improve product texture, and enhance the overall feel of skincare and haircare formulations.

Stearyl alcohol is produced through the hydrogenation of stearic acid. This process involves the addition of hydrogen to the acid, converting it into the fatty alcohol. In simpler terms, it’s like adding hydrogen to a fatty substance to make it into a waxy, solid alcohol that can be used in creams and lotions.

Many well-known cosmetic brands use stearyl alcohol in their formulations, including Cetaphil, Dove, Neutrogena, and Aveeno.

a bottle of cetaphil, a tube of deodorant,

Stearyl alcohol is generally considered safe and non-irritating for most skin types. It is biodegradable and not known to be banned in any countries. However, like many cosmetic ingredients, its sourcing and production can raise sustainability concerns, especially when derived from palm oil due to the environmental impact of palm oil cultivation.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that can be derived from coconut oil, specifically from the fatty acids present in the oil. It can also be sourced from other vegetable oils, such as palm oil, or synthesized from petrochemicals.

Cetearyl alcohol is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is commonly found in creams, lotions, hair conditioners, and other skincare and haircare products. Its primary function is to improve the texture and consistency of formulations, making them more spreadable and enhancing their moisturizing properties.

Cetearyl alcohol is not a single alcohol but a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is produced by the hydrogenation of fatty acids derived from coconut or other vegetable oils. In simpler terms, the fatty acids from these oils undergo a chemical reaction where hydrogen is added, resulting in the formation of the fatty alcohols that make up cetearyl alcohol.

Cetearyl alcohol is used by a wide range of cosmetic brands across different product lines. Some notable brands that may include cetearyl alcohol in their formulations are Cetaphil, Aveeno, and Nivea, among others.

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl stearate is a fatty acid ester derived from stearic acid, which can be found in coconut oil as well as other vegetable oils and animal fats. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, thickening agent, and stabilizer. It helps to form stable emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water components, improving the texture and consistency of creams, lotions, and other skincare products.

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The chemical reaction to produce glyceryl stearate involves the esterification of glycerol with stearic acid. This process results in the formation of a molecule with a glycerol backbone and one or more stearate groups attached. Basically, it’s like combining a sugar alcohol (glycerol) with a fatty acid (stearic acid) to create a compound that helps mix oil and water.

PEG-100 Stearate

PEG-100 stearate is a versatile ingredient in the cosmetic world, derived from the esterification of stearic acid with polyethylene glycol, or PEG-100. This process links a long, flexible chain of ethylene oxide units to a fatty acid, creating a compound that’s excellent at mixing oil and water. It’s found in various sources, including coconut oil, other vegetable oils, and animal fats.

In the realm of cosmetics, PEG-100 stearate shines as an emulsifier, surfactant, and moisturizer. It’s the secret behind the smooth, creamy textures of creams, lotions, and other skincare products, ensuring they spread evenly and provide lasting hydration.

white round plastic container on brown paper

While PEG-100 stearate is generally deemed safe for cosmetic use, there are some concerns to be aware of. The potential contamination with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, both considered carcinogenic, has raised eyebrows. Consequently, cosmetic manufacturers are encouraged to rigorously ensure the purity of PEG-100 stearate and keep an eye out for any contaminants. Moreover, for those with sensitive skin, it’s wise to do a patch test, as some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions to PEG compounds.


Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is a nifty ingredient made by mixing glycerol with isostearic acid, which can come from various fats like coconut oil, rapeseed oil, and soybean oil. It’s a popular choice in cosmetics as an emulsifier, which means it helps mix oil and water together in products like creams, lotions, and sunscreens.

The way it’s made is by combining glycerol with isostearic acid. This creates a molecule with three glycerol units attached to isostearic acid chains, making it a great emulsifying agent. In simpler terms, it’s like hooking up fatty acid chains to glycerol to create a compound that helps oil and water get along, leading to better texture and stability in cosmetic products.

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is a favorite among cosmetic brands, especially for products that need stable mixing of ingredients and a smooth feel on the skin.

When it comes to its impact on the environment and safety, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is generally seen as biodegradable and safe for use in cosmetics. So far, there aren’t any major issues or bans related to this compound in the cosmetic world.


Coconut Oil in Cosmetics Industry: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Last but not least in this article about coconut oil in cosmetics industry! Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate is a versatile ingredient derived from the combination of glycerol and stearic acid, which can come from various sources like coconut oil, palm oil, and animal fats. It’s a popular choice in the cosmetics world for its ability to blend oil and water together, making it perfect for creams, lotions, and makeup.

an assortment of makeup products on a pink background

In simpler terms, imagine it as a helper that mixes oil and water smoothly, giving cosmetic products a nice, stable texture. It’s like a little magic ingredient that ensures everything stays mixed and feels good on your skin.

Many cosmetic brands, such as Estee Lauder, use Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate in their products, especially when they’re looking for a smooth and stable result. It’s a go-to for creating products that feel great and are easy to use.

When it comes to safety and the environment, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate is generally seen as a good choice. It’s considered biodegradable, which is great for the planet, and safe for use in cosmetics. So far, there haven’t been any major concerns or bans related to this ingredient in the beauty industry.

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These compound prove the versatility of coconut oil in cosmetics industry as a key ingredient to derive plenty of useful substances. To get quality coconut oil with low colour, do not hesitate to contact us!

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